Epilogue: Home, Thanks, and Reflections

Lat: 42.39 N
Lon: 72.71 W


So I write this last blogpost in the comfort of my home back in Western Massachusetts, an incredible Yellow Lab at my feet nudging me every 15 minutes or so just to make sure (I think) that I'm really here, and so many wonderful and fulfilling thoughts in my head of the last 3 weeks or so. I can't believe I'm really home, and I can't believe I really traveled to the end of the Earth. People have been asking me, "Do you have one event or one moment that really stands out to you of the Expedition as a whole?" I can honestly say that I don't, that the memories and love for this experience comes not only from the incredible wildlife, but from the seas, the excursions, the sounds, the smells (not missing the Penguin Guano!), but most of all, the people who made up our expedition and the wonderful friendships I made along the way. That's the essence of travelling for me, wherever the journey might take me; people you meet along the way, to share the experience with, and to have lasting memories for a lifetime. Though the animals did steal the show this time for sure for me, the whole trip was made complete and magical by the special folks along the way.

Some folks I want to pay some special attention to that helped make this trip extra special: My buddy Micah back here at home, who updated my blog after every post and every addendum, I thank you from the bottom of my heart, my special MOT. Laura for the wonderful map of coordinates you added on FB that I first got to see today (You rock!). Dad for keeping you and Hickory alive in my absence, which is always a nice thing to come home to :). Kristen, Micah and Janet for checking in on my Pops to make sure all was AOK, and the spirit of loved ones gone who helped guide me on this fabulous journey. Your essence and soul were felt throughout. Onboard, Ro and Jason for cracking me up continuously (It's not fair!), Ralph, the best roomie a guy could have, Pam and John from OZ, my fellow shrink and how we didn't talk shop AT ALL. To staff members "Danger" Maggie and "Zodiac Man" Keith and Rob; our conversations, sharing of life and laughter helped make this an absolutely incredible journey, and to Eva, Eva, Eva for well...just being Eva. You all are sooooo invited to "Camp David", my place up in Huntington, Vermont, with or without me; mi casa es tu casa! I so absolutely mean it!

If you ever get a chance to go the Falklands, South Georgia, and Antarctica, go! Don't even think about it, just go. Save your pennies, it's an investment in the soul. You won't be disappointed; in fact, it may change you in an incredible and most wonderous way. I'm thankful for it, and for what this planet has to offer in its riches of life, abundance, and memory. I may send one more post of images and video, once I (with the help of others) can figure this computer thang out.

Finally, I would like to leave you all, with the help in part from my dear friend Laura who emailed this quote to me during my expedition from Sir Ernest Shackleton, aka "The Boss", with his words in regards to his Polar explorations in the land I just visited. Love and God Bless.

"We were conscious of tremendous forces all around us; Nature was not walled out; rather we were walled in. In a civilised country Nature is seldom visible or audible; her activities, at any rate, are not obtrusive; but with us there was nothing at all except those activities. It is a humbling experience to listen to ice-pressure and to watch the visible world breaking up all around one. The forces of Nature are so terrific that no scientific explanation of their action ever quite gives one a satisfying sense of their origin...We were all conscious of a Power that informed the whole living world." --Ernest Shackleton, on crossing South Georgia on foot.

Back in BA and Having Some Issues

Coordinates unknown


I have arrived back in Buenos Aires and all is fine (except for my stupidity of leaving my cell phone charger on the ship. I was so busy saying goodbye to folks that I didn´t make a clean sweep of the room). I just want to first update you all on the last 48 hours:

The Drake Passage turned out to be the Drake Lake after all, even on the second day of ocean traveling (Thursday). We really hit it lucky and had a huge high pressure system over us, thus the smooth sailing for the last bit of ship travel. The last day was tying up loose ends, including a 20 minute slide show of our travels and expedition. It was given to me on a thumb drive, and I hope to post it soon, as long as one my computer literate friends can help me out since I am completely computer ignorant. It's fabulous, over 300+ images set to music of the adventure, with a pretty cool shot of me on Antarctica! I was then given the news by kickass Maggie and Eva on board that I was invited to the Captain's Table for our farewell dinner. Quite the honour! The Captain never ate with us during the voyage and it was just 6 of us, including the Expedition Leader. I actually sat alongside the Captain as we chatted throughout dinner, and made sure I didn't ask him sea faring questions as I´m sure he gets that all the time. Ice hockey and his grandfather in the Soviet Army in WWII seemed to predominate our discussions. We then had a celebratory round(s) in the bar and for the rest of the evening 'til the wee hours of the a.m., I spent some great personal time with a few spectacular new friends I made on board. Some I feel friends for life, for sure (I hope). Then a 6 a.m. wake-up and we disembarked, and after some hugs and laughs, I was bound for the airport in Ushuaia. As the 3.5 hour flight from Ushuaia headed to Buenos Aires, all I could do was look out the window and think about what I had just experienced, what profound events had just happened to me the last few weeks, and what am I going to be like upon getting back to this "other world" that I´m returning to. Some last few goodbyes to folks on my flight at the airport, then a cab whisked me away to the hotel. Looking out the cab window, there are people everywhere. There´re trees. There´s concrete. There´s city, green, faces, windows, hustle and bustle. I´m now writing this from my hotel, and I´m not sure I want to go outside...I´m having some major culture shock issues. All is good and fine, I still have my Antarctic beard and feel great, but this "real world" will take some getting used to. I´m having dinner at a nearby restaurant I discovered before I left BA a few weeks ago. It was really, really great. Maybe that familiarity and friendship I made with the owner who I promised to see when I got back from my expedition will loosen me up a bit. But it´s all kind of weird right now. I´m so looking forward to getting home, seeing my dad and Hickory and friends I love and cherish so dear, but please understand I think I may be distracted for a while. This trip has really affected me in a terrific and profound way, and it may take a bit of time for me to get into the swing of things. My flight home is tomorrow night, arriving in Hartford at 1.00 p.m. on Sunday. I´m planning to post one last blog on Sunday night, my Epilogue if you will. I also have to make some major shoutouts to some very special folks. That will happen Sunday. 250 emails will wait as well.

So much love to you all. Right now I need to get my landlegs on...

The Drake Shake or the Drake Lake?

Lat: 5835.57675065 S
Lon: 06413.19995882 W

Our last day (yesterday) on land on the Antarctic Continent was at
Hannah's Point and Yankee Harbour in the South Shetland Islands. Terrific
colonies of Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins, Crabeater and Elephant Seals and
nesting Petrels were a great and fitting end to some fantastic land
excursions with just incredible weather. Popping Champagne and toasting to
a fabulous journey on the bow, we all seemed to have some wonderful
reflections of what we just experienced and accomplished. Aside from the
elusive Macaroni Penguin on land (we saw them out at sea) and the Emperor
Penguin (which would have been a rare sight indeed), we saw a plethora of
animals that were fascinating and mesmerizing in each of their own way.
We then positioned northward back to Ushuaia and to start our 2 day journey
through the Drake Passage. The Drake is notoriously considered one of the
roughest seas in the world, the stretch of Ocean between South America and
Antarctica. So we didn't know what to expect: The Drake Lake or the Drake
Shake? As I write this today, about half way through, we have been having
the Drake Lake :-). Mild rolling, really not bad at all but they are
predicting rougher seas for tomorrow, so the Lake may turn into the Shake.
No seasickness meds for me, I'm gonna ride this one out good or bad (famous
last words). We'll see how it continues to go. I'm starting to reflect on
the journey as snowflakes fall down, sitting up on the Bridge and learning
Russian with the crew. More on reflections later. Now is time to still gaze out
onto the deep blue sea and appreciate the sights of vastness in front of me.

The Perfect Day

Lat: 6407.98837000 S
Lon: 06057.58893392 W

After the monumental day of yesterday, standing on the Ice Continent for
the first time, I thought today would initially be a letdown. However, it was
anything BUT a letdown. We had two Zodiac excursions and a landing at
Trinity Island, more specifically at Mlkkelsen Harbour. The weather
yesterday with howling winds, blizzard like conditions at times, and totally
unpredictable, was the complete opposite today. Barely a cloud in the sky,
the seas were as calm as glass, and the outside temp. was probably 45
degrees F.! So amazing that we had a BBQ on the Stern, a Barbie on the
Grill in Antarctica!! After taking in Curtiss Bay, Trinity Island with
Mlkkelsen Harbour and finally Cierva Cove, the following were some of the
highlights: Humpback Whales breaching the surface and fluking(tail going
straight down)50 ft. from me; feisty Leopard Seals sunbathing on icebergs;
Weddell Seals taking a nap on Trinity; Chinstrap and Gentoo Penguins bounding through the placid seas; a huge rookery of Gentoo Penguins and their chicks; tabular
icebergs in all shades of blue and White; sunbathing on deck and chillin' on
Trinity while taking it all in, and having the most perfect idyllic day
anyone can ask for - Especially here in Antarctica! Tomorrow is our last
full day on the Continent before we head back to Ushuaia through the dreaded
Drake Passage :-0. I don't want that to kill my buzz. More on that for
another day.

Note: There is a rogue photo of me hula hooping on deck. Pay it no never
mind.

The Eagle has Landed!

Lat: 6259.28185270 S
Lon: 05833.81788642 W

Temperature: -7 degrees Celsius

We started out for a landing at the Argentinian base at Esperanza Bay (Hope
Bay), but alas there was no hope; the winds were gusting way too high at 45
knots. So we sailed off for a new destination, Brown Bluff, where we hoped
the conditions would be more favorable. We positioned our ship around noon
time (2 p.m. east coast time) and got the go ahead to make shore! We boarded
the Zodiacs, and on a windswept beach, with snow flying in all directions,
howling winds, and Gentoo Penguins to welcome our arrival, we landed
on the Continent of Antarctica!! As I stepped foot on the rocky shore,there
were Penguins, Seals, Auks everywhere, I realized that I now have stepped foot
on all 7 Continents of this incredible planet. At 44 years and roughly 2
months, I'm totally one lucky dude. We got on the beach with the winds
howling, hard to see in front of you with the blowing snow, and was able to
get behind a huge series of boulders not far from the water's edge to get my
bearings. It was Omaha Beach but in a very different way! Soaking it all
in, I made my way around Brown Bluff, an incredible amount of wildlife
around, terra firma beneath my feet, meanwhile soaking it all in before we
had to depart in an hour and a half. Back on board, it all started to sink
in for many of us; we had made it to the White Continent.

For me personally, it hasn't been about checking it off the list, another
place to say "Been there, done that". It's about continuing to live a fantasy
life, to be blessed and fortunate with good enough health to live my dreams,
to continually be reminded what a wondrous planet we life on, albeit animal,
human, vegetable or mineral. We have an immense capacity to love and be
loved, fighting injustice wherever it should rear its ugly head, and to give
the good fortunes to others that we take for granted at times; to help, love
and learn whether we're a human or an Adele Penguin. Life continues to amaze
me, after 44 years, and life has so much more to teach me that I love the
fact that I'll always be a student to my surroundings. You don't have to go
to Antarctica to have these thoughts, and I'm thankful that I feel I have
already learned some of this in my life. But the wonders of this planet, the
wonders of Antarctica and the South Atlantic, have continued to help
reinforce the values and love for this beautiful orb that I cherish so dear.


Today was for Mom. I miss you so much. More to share. Thanks for listening.

From Disappointment to Deception

Lat: 6259.45330872 S
Lon: 06010.95375394 W

South Shetland Islands

The day started out with a bit of a disappointment for us; the 2
scheduled shore landings were scrubbed due to a blizzard. The snow was
coming down horizontally with about 4 inches of snow on the deck. With 45
knot wind gusts, it was just too treacherous to get out on the Zodiacs. Two
Penguin rookeries including the Chinstrap (again, my favorite) and Adele
Penguins were just not gonna happen. The decision was made to head south to
escape the storm and get a head start on tomorrow's plan. So off we
went, with the seas rough and tumble, but late in the day we made it to
Deception Island, still part of the South Shetland Island archipelago.
Deception is quite amazing; it's a sunken Volcano that only has a small
opening on one side that the ship can narrowly get through. All hands were on the
Bridge to watch the Captain and Helmsman navigate their way through the
opening, dodging massive rock face cliffs on each side. It was quite the
show. Once inside the Caldera, we got into the Zodiacs and made a beach
excursion to the old whaling site (now extinct) but semi-protected from the
huge swells outside the Caldera. The ground was solid ash, and apparently
warm to the touch. Blowing snow throughout the landing, it felt like walking
in a huge snowstorm back home, but with Gentoo Penguins and Southern Polar
Skuas (the only bird that makes it to the South Pole) to greet us. The
visuals were monochrome - whites, greys, and blacks with an incredible hue
that felt again mystical and ominous. First one on, last one off. It was
fantastic.

Tomorrow we reach the Antarctic Continent itself with 2 proposed
landings. It was great to touch terra firma today, but to actually step
foot on the Antarctic Continent itself...it should be a magical Sunday
indeed!

Postscript to A Whale of a Time

By the time we reached Elephant Island at the end of the day, we had spotted over 270 Fin Whales, the second largest mammal on earth, along the days journey. The Staff and Expedition leaders had never seen anything like that before. One Expedition Leader has been traveling here for 22 years.

A Whale of a time

Lat: 6100.08543067 S
Lon: 05147.00431804 W

Today, while I was standing out in front of the bow, a pod of Fin Whales approached the ship. I couldn't say how many, maybe 5, but as I was at the very tip of the bow, the whales were literally right below me, mammoth in size. They followed the ship for a bit, and then the magic happened: A pod of Killer Whales (Orcas), at least 6, came in as well, hunting and looking for lunch. The sight was spectacular: We actually saw how the Orcas then proceeded to try to single out a calf, and the hunt was on. Splashing and breaching by both the Fins and the Orcas, the whole event was unfolding right in front of us, meters away from the ship. The Orcas try to chase and exhaust their prey, then try to drown their victim in a very coordinated attack by the pod. It was truly amazing to see this up close and in living color. What is even more amazing is that a few nights ago we were watching the documentary "Frozen Earth" by David Attenborough (which I highly recommend you check out) in which this very same event was filmed. To see this on a film, and then just a few days later to actually witness it, was unreal. This event took about 20 minutes, no blood and guts at the end to be seen. The captain did a masterful job keeping the action in front of us the whole time. So onward we go towards Elephant Island, but that was a rare event indeed.

I then proceeded to climb up the ship'ss mast, and holding on with one arm,
shouted at the top of my lungs, "I'm the King of the World!!". (OK,
everything but the last sentence was true. :-))

In the Land of Ice

Lat: 6056.14065913 S
Lon: 04538.40143527 W

So we're traveling South/Southwest and we've crossed over the 60 degree Latitude mark, officially entering The Antarctic region! It's been now 2 days out at sea, and last night was as turbulent as they come (so far). We skirted a pretty powerful storm with seas as high as 9 feet! Needless to say not a restful night. I've realized what really gets me nauseous on this voyage - food. They serve 3 terrific meals a day, but when in the dining room, surrounded by all that food, and the ship's rocking and rolling, that's when it gets to me. I ask for a Bento Box for meals in my room to help alleviate that, then join the others for happy hour or movie night to schmooze with the locals.

Due to those gale force winds and sea swells into which we have been sailing, we made the South Orkney Islands too late in the day for a land excursion. :-(
We actually saw a Russian supply ship, our first other human sightings in a week, abort a landing to the Orkneys as well due to the high seas so we didn't feel all that bad; if they couldn't do it, we certainly weren't going to.

All along the voyage now, icebergs are appearing, and we've spotted a Sperm Whale breaching the surface and Chinstrap Penguins (my personal favorite) running up an iceberg. How cool is that! Google a picture of the Chinstraps, they look like they have a Harley Helmet on or a yarmulke, whichever you prefer. Another day at sea tomorrow, but the winds should be dying down and favorable sailing conditions should come our way.

When not horizontal, I'm trying to spend as much time on the Bridge as possible. The captains and crew don't mind us up there, and actually encourage us as they go on maneuvers. It's incredible to watch the sea wash over the bow in huge waves, as long as you can stomach the action. If we're lucky tomorrow, we should approach Elephant Island, the famous spot where Shackleton made a desperate break back to South Georgia in a wooden lifeboat with 2 other gents and their hand sextant. In the middle of a cyclone and made it!! Incredible.

...and then we reach the Antarctic Peninsula!


Note: A happy birthday today to my sister Lori, who if not for her, this
trip would never have been possible. I love you Lori!!

About Ralph

Lat: 5804.07718541 S
Lon: 04016.02157963 W

Ralph is my roommate. Ralph is 82 years old. Ralph is the 2nd cutest 80-something year old that I know. Ralph is traveling alone on this adventure. Ralph is Canadian and is amazing. Ralph is a retired professor of History at the University of Calgary. Ralph didn't ask, but insisted, that he take the upper bunk bed in the room. Ralph, in order to get his bunk, uses a chair at the foot of the bunk bed, and gets up on the chair to climb on the ladder to hoist himself up onto his bed! Ralph makes me feel like a sadist when he gets into his bed, and I've asked him several times to PLEASE take the bottom bunk, but he refuses. Ralph repeats this every day and Ralph gets up twice a night to use the bathroom! Ralph says, "My bladder isn't just what it used to be". Ralph hums and whistles a ditty when he wakes up or puts his gear on to go outside. Ralph has been married for 58 years to his lovely wife Ruth back home in Calgary. Ralph, when the Katabatic winds were howling to close to 65 knots (over 77 mph) at times yesterday was near the front of the bow to snap photos of the Glaciers, when most of us were on the Bridge sheltered from the elements. Ralph was on this very ship in August traveling to the Arctic with One Ocean Expeditions, which means Ralph will have been to the Arctic and the Antarctic in 6 months!! Ralph is kickass. Ralph is my friend. Ralph and I share photos and laugh a lot with each other. Ralph is my roommate. I feel in some way Ralph and I were meant to be roommates...

Entering Mordor

Lat: 5521.67572950 S
Lon: 03632.95949085 W

After starting our last day in South Georgia with a land excursion to the incredible Gold Harbor and encountering 100,000 King Penguins, we set sail for the easternmost point on South Georgia Island with the hope of a Zodiac exploration of Cooper Island. Unfortunately, we had sustained wind gusts of over 40 knots making it impossible to get the Zodiacs out onto the water. We then proceeded to explore the Drygalski Fjord. Who knew we were actually going to Middle Earth and Mordor!?! On our way, the seas were consistently gusting over 45 knots, white caps along the water and wild sea waters out in front of us. As we approached the Fjord, it was as if we were entering a whole new world, like nothing I had ever encountered. Snow-capped mountains all around us with glaciers appearing around every corner. It almost seemed that the Fjord was creating its own weather pattern, with darkening skies and beams of sunlight breaking through the clouds as if it was pointing the path that we should take. Winds were absolutely howling as we passed through the
Fjord, with still crystal clear turquoise water full of glacial nutrients. We passed our first iceberg of the journey, with its jagged crest and pure white sheen. Just a sampling of what we will encounter as we head further South. We made it to the very end of the Drygalski Fjord to a magnificent Glacier, then turned around and veered right in a southerly course where we now won't see land again for a day and a half until we reach the South Orkney Islands. South Georgia Island was fabulous in so many ways, and I'm so so glad that it was on the itinerary for this epic voyage. The seas are really rough again, as the ship sways back and forth and I try to hold onto my cookies. There's no turning back now as we make our way towards the Ice Continent! Hold on!!

Holy Guacamole!!

Lat: 5416.98274401 S
Lon: 03630.05660222 W

So the fog had lifted...and displayed South Georgia in all it's grandeur!!! Glacier-filled mountain stretches that lead down to the sea, with crystal clear turquoise water that seems so inviting though it's as cold as a....We woke up in Fortuna Bay and got ready to get the Zodiacs and kayaks out for an excursion to follow Shackleton's last bit of trekking over the island to get to the Whaling Station. One problem for us: We had sustained winds of 45 knots (that's over 50 mph) and some gales measured at 70 knots (that's 80 mph folks, a Category 1 Hurricane)!! So needless to say no landing in the A.M., but a cruise through the channels on a crystal clear day, in and out of bays and coves with spectacular glaciers and mountains in front of us, all the while King Penguins and Fur Seals coming up to the boat to check us out. Then we went on, a late afternoon land excursion to Grytviken, the main settlement on South Georgia. After paying homage and a toast of whiskey to the grave of Sir Ernest Shackleton, aka "The Boss," we had an amazing Wobble (hike) :-)along the mountain ranges near Grytviken which kicked my ass, but soooo great after some sedentary time on the ship. I so needed that, and incredible vistas and exploring with Elephant Seals and King Penguin rookeries all along the way. Brilliant! South Georgia is so stark with vibrant greens, mountain ranges with 9,000 ft. peaks and glaciers that plunge down to the ocean. It's so beautiful that I hope my photos will do it justice! One more day here at South Georgia, and then we head south to make our way to the Ice Continent!!

A 5:30 A.M. wake up tomorrow morning for an outstanding excursion that I will write about tomorrow, now off now to beddie bye.

There is a really interesting and wonderful group of folks on board; I tend to float
between continents! The Aussies and Kiwis are a hoot, we regale stories of mutual adventures; the North Americans (and many of the SE Alaska staff), we have a very special bond; the Israelis seem to like me; and the Europeans all hold up the bar at night and I'm game with my non-alcoholic bevvie :-). There're a few peeps with whom I've developed a really special and close bond, and I'll write more about my roomie soon.

A special thanks to everyone who has sent me some very personal emails and thoughts in the past few days. I've actually been overwhelmed by your kind words and wishes. You all continue to remind me over and over again that I have the best friends in the world!! From this end, I have no idea if you're reading the posts, but your amazing words continue to inspire me.

From many, many miles away, all my love (hey, tomorrow's Valentines Day)!!

Dave

South Georgia Ecstasy

South Georgia Ecstasy

The fog and mist that has shrouded our ship was ever present as we boarded the Zodiacs to make our way to Salisbury Plain on South Georgia Island. After 2 full days of traveling from the Falklands, we made it in a dense fog that was both ominous and mysterious. As we boarded the Zodiacs, absolutely no land was in sight. Our expedition leader cut the engine every 100 yards or so and had us just listen: we ebbed along and started to hear squawking, animal cries, almost barking and howling type noises from somewhere in the fog. Not being able to see anything, but the faces in front of us, it was totally eerie. We then started to approach what looked like land. As we floated ever so closer, we could make out objects moving on land. We turned the outboard engine back on and with a thrust, made a shore landing with the Zodiac.

Then the wonderment happened: we could make out King Penguins, standing maybe 3 feet tall, waddling towards us! And not just the King Penguins, but Fur Seals of all sizes, and Elephant Seals bellowing out their cries. It. Was. Incredible!! So how many King Penguins were there on Salisbury Plain to greet us?? Only 250,000 with their brown chicks squawking beside them! The beach/plain was literally covered with wildlife, as far as the eye could see (so sorry I can't send photos, but Google King Penguins until I get back to get a sense of how incredible they are). They came inches away, not afraid of man, and the adorable baby seals would waddle right up to you, with big brown eyes and chase you with absolutely no fear. Just incredible!

Then another excursion later in the day - we went to Prion Island, a very rare and fortunate visit for us (most of our leaders, including our world renowned Penguin expert had never been there) to visit the Gentoo Penguin colony and the extremely rare nesting sight of the Wandering Albatross with a wing span of 6 to 7 feet! The ultimate hang gliders. Just an absolutely amazing day, and the mist and fog that enveloped our landings just made it even more mystical and mysterious - otherworldly. It's going to be hard to top a day like today.

Note: Only 5,000 people a year are able to visit the nesting and breeding colonies of South Georgia Island. I feel extremely fortunate to be one of those privileged guests. We'll spend two more days here, including hiking South Georgia and visiting other colonies and nesting sites of other animals. Plus the Museum and grave site of Ernest Shackleton tomorrow.

Crossing the Antarctic Convergence

Coordinates:
Lat: 5342.11826207 S
Lon: 03917.72023778 W
Eastern Standard Time +3 hours

Saturday, February 11th we crossed over the Antarctic Convergence, which is
essentially the perimeter boundary area that surrounds the Antarctic
Continent. The air temperature is noticeably colder, and the water temperature is
colder as well. The mixing of the warmer and colder water temperatures
creates upwelling, with increased amount of supplies of nutrients in the
sea, which also creates an abundance of sea life in this zone. Visually,
this creates a fog or mist that shrouds the Ocean. As we continue on to
South Georgia, which is in the Antarctic Convergence, the sea is shrouded in
a fog; kinda spooky, kinda mysterious. Visibility pockets open, then close,
and animals occasionally appear on the ocean, like a King Penguin or an
Elephant Seal. We're entering Humpback Whale territory. The Ocean seems to
be teeming with life, you just have to find it in the Convergence fog.
Sunday is a big day - our landing at South Georgia, though the sea swells
are predicted to be HUGE, with enormous wave action and 40+ mph wind gusts.
With the sea totally unpredictable, the crew is hopeful for a successful
launching of the Zodiacs. I plan to be on the first one! We were prepped
about what we are about to see on land regarding animals and topography, but I'm
going to hold off on saying anything until the next posting. Keeping you in
suspense!! Ciao for now.

Rolling on the Deep Blue Sea

Coordinates:
Lat: 5244.86225226 S
Lon: 04645.82123479 W

A full day out at sea today (Friday) and for tomorrow. We're making our way
East/Southeast on a course on the North Scotia Sea along the North Scotia
Ridge, heading for South Georgia Island. To be out in the middle of the deep
blue sea is mysterious, tranquil, and mesmerizing all at the same time. It
really is a humbling experience. With no land for hundreds and hundreds of
miles, the sea swells are huge (over 7 meters) and we're traveling at about 14
knots. The horizon is endless, with Albatross, Petrels, Shearwaters and
Prions all following the ship. I was able to chat with the Captain today
(Ukrainian), tho' my Russian is weak; A lot of smiling and pointing.

Amazing that when we left Ushuaia and the seas were mildly rough, and
wearing the patch, I felt queasy and blah. Now in the deep ocean, with high
seas, rocking and rolling and incredible swells, with no patch, I'm
absolutely fine. Go figure. I checked out my photos in the MacLab, they're
terrific! To be posted in the future.

The days have been filled with fascinating lecture series/discussions, happy
hours(!), catnaps, and on deck sightings of birds and mammals both great
and small. The ship (Academic Ioffe) is a research vessel that is used in
the Arctic and Antarctic for folks like me for 8 months of the year, then
Oceanographic research for the other 4 months. Kaliningrad, Russia is the
mother port of call. 17 countries are represented on the ship, with an outstanding Ukrainian Crew and an incredible Canadian/American/British/Aussie staff that is terrific. Anticipation is definitely building as we get ever so closer to South Georgia Island in a few days!

Mutiny on the High Seas!‏

So an interesting bit of drama that I should have posted yesterday. When we
left after our first day and headed out of the Beagle Channel, one of the
passengers (not me) got deathly ill. Apparently she had a GI bleed which is
pretty serious, and we had to turn back to Ushuaia (8 hours into our
journey) so she could get medical attention. If we were further along she
probably would have died according to the ship's doctor. So we went back,
dropped her and her husband off, then proceeded on with the journey. But now
we were a day behind schedule. So there had to be an executive decision on
what to cut out of the itinerary. The Excursion Leader decided to forgo
visiting the settlement of Stanley on the Falklands and focus more on the
natural/animal and environmental aspects of the voyage (which was great with
me). But wow, some of the UK folks were up in arms about this decision. Some
had relatives who fought in the Falklands War with Argentina and wanted to
see Stanley where the fighting occurred. Some said we should have taken a
"ship's vote". Needless to say, you can't please everybody and some folks
were outraged/disappointed. Tough being in the people pleasing industry.
Well, those folks seemed to have calmed down and mutiny averted (Rockhopper
Penguins and an open bar have a way of calming nerves :-)) But thankfully
the patient made it back to Ushuaia which was the priority. Hope she's OK.
The painted houses and tea and crumpets of Stanley can wait for another day.
Just a little drama on the High Seas!

Note: I'm not sure if I mentioned this before but major thanks to my buddy
Micah. Since there's no Internet onboard, I can't see feedback from the
posts or Facebook. So what I'm doing is sending Micah an email, and he's
posting my message to you in the outside world. Thanks Micah and
thanks one and all!!
I can receive emails but they can't come with pictures or attachments via
the satellite phone. Also the email needs to be 5 sentences or less.
Thanks!! The address is:

coolship+324maisey@ooepolar.com

Alive and Well in the Falklands

After the first few days out at sea, I'm finally getting my sea legs; A bit
queasy, but all good. We have had a pod of Hourglass Dolphins following our
ship. Good luck! We arrived today to Las Islas Malvinas (Falklands) where we
started at West Point Island. It was absolutely incredible! We checked out
a rookery of thousands of Rockhopper Penguins alongside a colony of
Wandering Albatrosses and their chicks. Then off to Carcass Island for a
rookery of Magellanic Penguins and other bird species. The naturalists and
ornithologists are so knowledgeable and enthusiastic and it's totally
contagious!

The food is pretty good, I have a 82 year old roomie (pretty cool), and
hangin' with many cool people on board. I won't be able to send photos, will
have to wait for when journey is over. We set sail in a few hours for a 2-day
journey at sea to the much anticipated South Georgia Island! Should be
amazing!

Will write again soon, hope all are well. I'm so lucky to be here!!

Dave

To capture the images or not?

One last blog entry before departure. Have been thinking about how often I want to be tryi g to capture everything on photo or video. As with a new camera I'm still learning things along the way, but the last thing I want is to be tied down to trying to capture every amazing image I will see and hear. A good friend (thanks, Chris!) who knows his way very well around the camera repeated that "take it all in, just dont feel that you have to share everything. It will take away from the experience." I will try to share this experience as much as I can, but I want to feel as much as I can with my eyes, my ears, my mind and especially my heart. Just my soapbox for the day, as I'm sure I'll try to convey this all either by image or written word. Ship boarding is in 2 hours!! Anxiety and excitement are the emotions for the day.

Embarkation Day!

So here it is, Embarkation Day! After a super fun night after a Super Bowl victory by my beloved NY Giants, it's time to get ready and make sure all is set for the journey to begin. Bags are almost all packed and all that's left is to meet up with the ship
and passengers at the Oceanfront (actually the Beagle Channel front). The only thing that still concerns me about the trip...not to get seasick! I brought the precautionary meds., the Ginger pills, the seasickness patch, the wristbands, etc., etc. I just can't worry about that anymore, hope for the best, and just push the fluids. I'm sure all will be fine, but hey, don't go to Antarctica if you're going to worry about getting seasick.

So I reminded my dad that he may not hear from me for the duration of the expedition. Remember: no news is good news!! Though I sure he's worrying, if any of you know my dad (Seymour), please drop him a quick chat to say hi. I'm sure he'd love that. (413) 256-6976. Evenings are best, and thanks from me!!

So on this rainy day here in Ushuaia, it's the start of the journey! What will I see, what will I get to explore? What will the fellow passengers be like? Can I bring home a Penguin? All answers to be had. So again, limited to no live Internet onboard, so I will try to blog when I can. If not, when I get back. Love and thanks to you all for your support, love and concern. And if you sent me your address, expect a postcard from the bottom of the earth!!

Tierra del Fuego

Ushuaia and Tierra del Fuego continues to inspire. The southernmost town in the world, Ushuaia is obviously based on tourism, but it has a charm all to its own. Houses and roads are scattered in every which direction. According to locals, people just built houses here, then worried about roads, water, electricity, etc. It's a destination and getaway point to the South Atlantic and Antarctica all in one. This is were I will embark on my Antarctic odyssey as well as explore Tierra del Fuego National Park.

Joining a tour company I went on a trekking and paddling trip through Tierra del Fuego National Park. Stunning views along the coast, our trek took us into the forest, with dense Beech and evergreen forests. All along the trek on the coast, Chile was just on the other side of the Bays and Lakes, with views of the beginning of Cape Horn that leads to the Drake Passage to Antarctica. Weather changes constantly, from bright sun to drizzle to heavy downpours within minutes. But no mind, just a glorious adventure and so good to get a workout before setting sail. Great paddling along the river that took us to our drop off point. Finally a visit to the end of the Pan American Highway point. If you stay on this road all the way you can make it to Alaska. Another trip for another time!! Great last few days before embarkation.

Buenos Aires

So after 48 hours here in Buenos Aires, I remembered how much I love this city!! Aside from using my Spanish which is always great fun, the sights, sounds and beautiful people that make up BA is mesmirising! From learning to Tango in the Milongas, to stalking out my new favorite cafe, BA has so much going on its scary. First of all I was here 6 years ago, and returned to the Art Hotel, and so glad I did! www.ahotel.com.ar
There actually is an Art Gallery in the lobby! In the section of Recoleta, this neighborhood that I´m staying in is cozy, not hectic at all, a Cafe on every corner, and smiling faces abound. Just a 15 minute walk is the famous Recoleta Cemetery where of note Eva Peron is entombed. I made sure I paid my respects.

Learning to tango in the Milongas are great fun, all aboard, and after a while you think you have it down...till you try the next move which humbles you immensely. Just a relaxed pace here in BA if you look for it, and the food (Steak) at the Parrillas...well you cant do any better if you hanker for some red meat. Better than Montana, yup, I just said that.

So tomorrow I head down to Ushuaia, in Tierra del Fuego, getting ready for the big Expedition that starts on Monday. But some kayaking and overall exploring in Tierra del Fuego is in order for the next 48 hours. The suspense is building that´s for sure...it still doesn´t seem real...

Note: I was fortunate enough to attend Friday night services at the main Synagogue in BA, where I was able send out a prayer to my buddy Lou Davis, who is struggling with some health issues I unfortunately know all to well. Love you Lou, and hope the healing prayers get to you in a jiffy!!


Till next time mi amigos!